Martha’s Vineyard – Beyond the Tourist Towns
Freshwater ponds, a fake grave, clay baths, and the “up island” slow lane.
Martha’s Vineyard is an island a short distance off the coast of Woods Hole, MA. How many beaches are there? Too many to count. Many aren’t on any map and are known only to locals — so I was lucky to have a couple of locals show me around.
⛴️ Getting There – By Bike, Not Car
The remote parking lot on Palmer Avenue in Falmouth is very convenient. There are frequent shuttle buses to the Woods Hole Terminal, and it’s also right on the Shining Sea Bike Path — an easy 4‑mile ride to the terminal. Great ride!
The Massachusetts Steamship Authority in Woods Hole can be a hectic place. Get there for an early boat and you’ll miss the madness. Also, don’t go on weekends. This photo was taken on my return on Friday — lots of people want to get to the Vineyard for the weekend. Cars? Not so much. Bikes either go on first or last, depending on when you get there. Once they start loading vehicles, you will have to wait with your bike.
I went on a Wednesday, and it was not crowded. You can spread out and ride in air‑conditioned comfort.
🚴 Riding on the Island
(If you have a RideWithGPS map of your Vineyard rides, you can embed it here. Replace YOUR_ROUTE_ID with the actual ID.)
🏠 A Night I Still Remember – Parking Lot Party, Early 80s
I spent one very long night partying in this parking lot back in the early 80s. I arrived on a Friday night and our accommodations did not start until Saturday. I still get a chill when I think of it. Thought I was living the life but couldn’t have been more wrong.
Partying right out to the edge that separates life from death was part of the 80s, and I was into it. So was John Belushi, who crossed over that edge on March 5, 1982.
⚰️ The Belushi Grave – Real or Fake?
The epitaph on the main grave reads: “I may be gone, but Rock and Roll lives on.” It’s said that due to too many tourists visiting, this is a fake grave set up to keep them away from the real one. If you are standing here looking at this grave and turn around 180 degrees, you’ll see a large, lone stone that simply says “Belushi”. That, I believe, is the real grave. One day this fake grave will have served its purpose and can be removed.
🏞️ A Secret Freshwater Pond (Thanks, Locals)
This is one of many freshwater ponds on Martha’s Vineyard. Went for a swim and it’s awesome! This was once a pond where in the winter they harvested blocks of ice for food refrigeration.
This is something that most tourists will not find their way to. So glad I had some of that good local knowledge to share their secret. However, it is public! It’s part of the Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank system — where 10% of all real estate sales prices goes into a fund to purchase properties like this for public use. There are lots of properties.
👉 Read all about it and get a list of all their properties here → Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank. Very cool.
🎨 Gay Head / Aquinnah – The Clay Cliffs
If you’ve been to Gay Head, you’ll “feel” this painting. Gay Head is a very special place, which I did not get to on this trip. The cliffs are made of multi‑colored clay — reds, yellows, whites, grays, and black. People will mold the clay into baths where you can take a clay bath. This is/was a clothes‑optional beach.
Here’s the real deal in a photo I took in 1983:
Here a couple of young ladies have shed their bathing suits for a clay bath and a walk along the beach.
🏛️ Edgartown – Whaling Captains & Tourist Mecca
Edgartown Harbor. The tourist mecca from hell. All tourists find their way to Edgartown, and more often than not, I was one of them. It’s jam‑packed. Parking is hard to find. Prices are high. They do have a nice social life there — check out my video below for a sample.
Edgartown, Nantucket, New Bedford, and many other coastal communities were home to the best whalers in the world. The homes here were ship captains’ homes. Whaling was a huge industry starting in the early 1800s.
🌅 “Up Island” – Where Time Slows Down
As a tourist, I spent my days at the beach and my evenings in one of the three more populated areas — mostly Oak Bluffs and Edgartown, as they are the only two communities where alcohol is sold. Vineyard Haven is another larger community.
But I was lucky enough to spend time with friends who lived the “up island” experience — anywhere but the three main communities. It’s a different experience. Very relaxed, no stress from cars, and slow‑paced, where the day seems to be longer as time slows down.
🏖️ State Beach – Easy and Warm
State Beach is a beach I always visit. It’s easy. No waves. Protected from the open sea. Warm water. Looking south, State Beach runs all the way to Edgartown — a nice, easy beach.
🎥 Video Overview
Check out the video here for more details and photos from this trip:
📌 Quick Tips – Martha’s Vineyard
- Go mid‑week (Wednesday) – avoid the ferry madness and crowds.
- Park in Falmouth – the Palmer Avenue lot is a gem, with shuttle or bike to ferry.
- Bring your bike – it’s the best way to explore the island and skip car lines.
- Seek out Land Bank properties – they’re public, beautiful, and tourist‑free.
- Don’t miss the “up island” experience – get away from Oak Bluffs/Edgartown.
- The Belushi grave? Look for the lone stone.
First published July 2021. Updated with clearer sections and local stories preserved.