Published: June 3, 2026
Cookies, a Ferry, and Quiet Maine Island Roads
A day trip that starts with fresh‑baked oatmeal raisin cookies and leads to salt air and quiet roads. It ends with the best clam chowder and a classic New England outdoor shower.
Getting to Chebeague Island is part of the adventure. You can take the long ferry from Portland, winding through Casco Bay past half a dozen other islands, or the quick ferry from Yarmouth, which gets you there in 15 minutes — but first you have to park, take a shuttle, and haul your bike onto the boat. Either way, the moment you step off the ferry, the mainland feels a world away.
Since I was in Harpswell to the north I took the ferry from Yarmouth. Parking in the lot can be tough there. This is a car free ferry so spaces open up as people return.
🚗 The Journey There
We began at our friends’ oceanfront home in Harpswell, with coffee on the porch and the smell of low tide in the air. A classic Maine experience.
First stop: a small bakery in Yarmouth for fresh oatmeal raisin cookies and more coffee. The kind of place where the locals nod hello and the pastries are still warm. Photo of the bakery below.
From there, we drove to Cousins Island, crossed this bridge to the island, and stopped at Sandy Point Beach. It’s a quiet little beach which you will likely find you have all to yourself.
From there, we drove to the Chebeague Island ferry, parked the car, and loaded our bikes onto the Chebeague Transportation Company ferry. The crossing is only 15 minutes, but it feels like a transition — mainland noise fades, island calm takes over.
🚴 Exploring Chebeague Island
The island roads are quiet and mostly flat. We followed North Road to the far end, then looped back on South Road. There’s no need for a GPS map — just follow the shoreline and turn down any road that looks interesting.
We stopped at the beach near the sandbar (low tide was coming in, so we didn’t cross), watched the fishing boats from a rocky point. Then we circled back toward the ferry.
There are a lot of beaches you will pass. Enjoy them as you may.
🍽️ Food – From Bakery to Boat
Rosemont Market & Bakery – Yarmouth
The perfect pit stop before catching the ferry to Chebeague on Cousins Island. Oatmeal raisin cookies that were still warm. Coffee that was fresh brewed from artisan beans. The kind of stop that turns a good trip into a memorable one. Find it in the center of Yarmouth.
Chebeague Island
A handful of restaurants serve food on the island, most on the upscale end. We didn’t eat there — a good breakfast and a power bar got us through.
Gurnet’s Trading Company – Harpswell
This little roadside find has what I consider to be the best clam chowder in my journey in The Summer of 100 Beaches. It’s what I like best. I don’t declare anything to be “The Best” as everybody has their own taste, style, and needs.
Check out the food photos below. Look at that chowder.
📜 Local Knowledge & History
🚢 The Stone Sloopers
Chebeague was once home to “stone sloopers” — sailors who carried granite from island quarries to ports along the Eastern Seaboard. Granite from here was even used in the Washington Monument.
🏛️ The Sandbar to Little Chebeague
At low tide, a natural sandbar connects Chebeague to Little Chebeague, a small undeveloped island with trails and campsites. We didn’t cross (the tide was coming in), but it’s on the list for next time.
🎥 Video Highlights
This 5 minute video will provide a good sense for what biking on Chebeague is all about. There are a lot of beaches here. Well…it’s an island after all. Roads are mostly flat and easy going.
📌 Tips for This Trip
- Start in Harpswell – If you’re lucky enough to have friends with an oceanfront home, this is the way to do it. If not, consider staying overnight nearby to make an early start.
- Find that bakery – Rosemont Market & Bakery, Yarmouth. The oatmeal raisin cookies and coffee are worth the stop and it’s right on the way.
- Park at Cousins Island – The ferry parking lot fills up, so arrive early. Yes, there’s a fee. In peak season you may find the parking lot to be filled. Check ahead.
- Bring cash – Some island spots are cash-only. The ferry takes cards, but the bakery might not.
- Check the tide chart – If you want to walk the sandbar to Little Chebeague, plan your visit around low tide.
- No map? No problem. – Chebeague is small and easy to navigate. Just ride toward the water.
📸 Photo Gallery
